I posted the other day saying I was thinking about buying an early 2000s Chevy Blazer. Yes, I’ve always wanted one, but really what I want is an SUV around that size. So now I’m looking into the Ford Explorer from the same time. How hard are they to work on? And are the engines they used reliable?
Thanks for all the advice so far. At this point, I don’t care if it’s Ford or GM (I’m definitely not going with Dodge). I’m just looking for a smaller SUV or a small pickup with an extended cab (I’m too tall for a standard cab). Preferably a 4x4.
@Dakota
Check out a Ranger.
@Dakota
With a 20-year-old vehicle, the most important thing is how well it’s been taken care of. Focus on repair costs and how easy they are to fix. Chevy full-size trucks win in that category for me.
A Nissan Pathfinder from around 2000 is also solid if you can find one, especially with a stick shift. Avoid the Xterra though—the transmissions don’t last, and the same goes for the Murano.
Toyota is a safe bet if it’s in decent shape and not rusted.
For Chevy: the 5.3 and 4L60 are solid. The 4.3 in the Blazer/Jimmy runs forever, but the transmissions can be weak, and the Blazer is cramped. Changing the spark plugs, especially cylinder 3, is a pain. Also, the aftermarket distributor caps collect condensation.
For Ford: the transmissions from that era can be iffy, but the 4.6 and 5.0 engines are solid. Avoid the 5.4 3-valve.
For Honda: great 3.5 V6 engines, but their front-wheel-drive transmissions are weak. Stay away from those.
Jeep XJ with the I6 4.0 is another option, though their transmissions are weak too. The WJ and Dodge models with the 4.7 can work if they’ve been maintained, but they often have issues like broken exhaust manifold bolts, timing chain problems, and valve seats popping. Transmission and transfer case failures are also common. Watch for electrical problems as well.
One of the worst vehicles ever made, honestly. And yeah, someone will probably jump in and say how their grandpa’s Explorer went 3 million miles on one oil change because he used Rotella 15W40, just like his tractor. But they’re still junk. The Blazer was better overall, though not by much. Both have too many issues. Sure, you can fix them, but why bother?
@Peyton
Worst ever? Come on, it’s been in production for over 30 years! That’s saying something.
Tate said:
@Peyton
Worst ever? Come on, it’s been in production for over 30 years! That’s saying something.
Yeah, it sells well because it caters to a specific crowd. People keep buying them, but that doesn’t mean they’re great.
I’ve got a 2000 Ford Explorer XLT that I bought from a private seller on Facebook back in September. It’s been nothing but trouble—mostly electrical and battery issues. I’m spending way too much money trying to figure it out.
I’m not a car guy, so I only know the basics.
@Keller
Private sellers usually get their cars from auctions and barely do the minimum to get them running before selling them to people who don’t know better. They don’t even check the tire pressure unless they think it’ll help sell the car. Sorry you’re having problems, but it’s more likely the fault of this particular vehicle and not the model itself.
They’re pretty easy to work on. The main issues are the 4-speed automatic transmission and, I think, the SOHC V6 (there were two V6 options, and one was more problematic). They also go through ball joints faster than most. But the 5.0 V8 is an excellent option, even though the MPG isn’t great. The one I had made it to 245k miles before I sold it. I’d buy another one if I needed a similar SUV.
I had one for years and didn’t have major problems with it. Just make sure you stay on top of regular maintenance, and it should treat you fine. If you’re okay with doing some of the work yourself, it’s a good choice for the price.