I’m in the market for a used Explorer with about 100k miles and want to avoid buying a problematic year or model. Any advice on what years to steer clear of, and what to look out for when inspecting one?
2011-2019 models are known for water pump issues around 100k miles. It’s a costly fix because of the engine design—it can run $2-3k. If you’re looking at one, make sure the water pump has been serviced or that the price reflects the need for replacement.
Also, keep in mind the PTU fluid needs regular service, even though Ford claimed it was ‘lifetime.’ Change it every 30k miles. For pre-2011 models, avoid 2001-2010—they had tons of transmission issues.
This is solid advice. I’d add that later models in the 2011-2019 range (like 2018-2019) are generally more reliable since Ford had time to fix some bugs.
Remember: when manufacturers say ‘lifetime,’ they mean the warranty period, not the car’s actual lifespan. Always service those ‘lifetime’ components.
Avoid 2020 and early 2021 models. They were rushed out during the pandemic, and build quality suffered. My friend at a Ford dealership calls them ‘COVID cars.’
If you’re looking at 2011-2019 models, the 3.5L engines (both NA and EcoBoost) have water pump issues. For older models, the 2001-2010 range had transmission problems, especially with towing. That said, earlier models with the V8 and towing package fared better. If you’re looking at something post-2020, be cautious of early builds—2020 in particular had recalls.
I had a 2013 Sport, and it was a nightmare. Timing chain issues, turbo failures, and cam positioning problems cost me thousands. From what I’ve heard, these issues improved significantly in 2017 and later models, so avoid earlier years unless you’re ready to spend on repairs.
Is the water pump issue specific to certain engines or all of them in the 2011-2019 range?
Cameron said:
Is the water pump issue specific to certain engines or all of them in the 2011-2019 range?
The water pump problem is specific to the 3.5L engines when mounted transversely in FWD or AWD setups. Rear-wheel-drive Explorers or those with other engines don’t have this issue.
What do you think of a 2010 AWD with 140k miles? They’re asking $4k OBO. It’s a one-owner car from a nice family. What should I check?
Jory said:
What do you think of a 2010 AWD with 140k miles? They’re asking $4k OBO. It’s a one-owner car from a nice family. What should I check?
Sounds reasonable, but check service records. Make sure fluids like transmission and differential were replaced regularly. Look for rust underneath and listen for timing chain rattle on a cold start. If it’s clean, it could be a good deal—maybe try to negotiate closer to $3k.
From my experience, avoid 2011-2016 models unless they’ve been thoroughly inspected. Those years are riddled with issues like timing chain problems and turbo failures. If you’re set on a 3.5L engine, go for 2017 or later.
Bought a 2016 Sport at 109k miles, and by 125k, I needed a new transmission and engine mounts. I’m also expecting the water pump to go soon. If you’re buying used, make sure to budget for repairs or go for a newer model with fewer issues.